Ravinder Bhogal vegan residence ★★★★★

We loved Ravinder Bhogul at Jikoni – her pretty, homely restaurant in Marylebone which opened in 2016 to ravishing reviews. We loved her on telly when Gordon Ramsay hailed her the new Fanny Craddock. We loved her Cook in Boots debut cookbook. Right now we can love her creating exotic vegan dishes at The Perception Bar at the W London in Soho.

Bhogal is staging a take over of the kitchen at W London’s boldly glam bar/lounge and everything on the menu, including the wine, is vegan. Dishes hail from East Africa, Indian and Persia, reflecting her heritage and her travels.

Ravinder herself isn’t vegan, though she is fascinated by its momentum especially in London and bills her menu as created with her vegan niece in mind.

She noted: 'Whether you consider veganism an ethical movement, belief system, or fad diet right up there with paleo and gluten-free, there’s no denying we have reached a critical moment in its evolution. All that aside, my reasons for creating this menu are more personal.

When my niece became vegan, it made it necessary for me to think about a different way of cooking. I have really enjoyed the process of working with vegetables, fruits, grains and pulses without having to rely on the safety blankets of meat and dairy. I suppose this menu is a love letter to Avneet – I always want to make sure she is well fed.'

Ravinder's ravishing flavour combinations make the dishes so satisfying, even for consummate carnivores. I loved cauliflower popcorn with Thai basil, spring rolls, chickpea/besan pancakes with spiced yoghurt, all subtly nuanced, colourful, crunchy and exquisitely plated. Service is friendly, knowledgeable and speedy, making it a great, refreshingly different pre or post theatre stop.

Desserts are a revelation: possibly the most wonderful vegan desserts ever. It would be rude not to order all three: the rose, coconut and cardamom doughnuts are worth a visit alone; fragrant and ethereally light, saffron, mango and passionfruit 'cheesecake' is beautiful too, and the charred pineapple with lime & lemongrass sorbet is good for a more refreshing option. We nearly licked the plates!

Price: £80.00+ dinner for two with wine
The menu is available until the end of June 2018,
Click here for more details and to book