Review: Old Compton Brasserie, Soho

The first thing you notice about Old Compton Brasserie – one of the trendiest new neighbourhood restaurants in Soho, London – is the space it occupies. It’s alive with bespoke artwork from local street artists, pop paintings featuring Twiggy and Kate Moss and neon light installations that resemble top-dollar works by Chilean artist Ivan Navarro.

The grand space, with a split-level mezzanine and top-notch bar, hums with chatter from a well-healed clientele. It’s a relaxed setting that suits a multitude of occasions, from an intimate dinner à deux to pre or post-theatre drinks with friends.

Kick off the evening at the bar with a bespoke cocktail from renowned mixologist Matt Whiley. The menu is concise but intriguing: many of the aperitifs and cocktails are inspired by ‘Soho’s most treasured legends’. ‘The Paul Raymond,’ for example, is an ode to the ‘King of Soho,’ while the ‘Regina Fong’ is a homage to the cult 60s female impersonator. For those with a more traditional palette, the St Germain Royale comes highly recommended. If nothing on the menu takes your fancy, the friendly bar staff will gladly concoct an alternative.

Food is Modern British: bistro-style fish, meat and vegetarian dishes, as well salads, burgers and sandwiches grace the all-day menu. The choice is extensive but offers no surprises. To start, we shared a Burratina with rosemary marinated tomatoes, kale pesto, crispy kale and grilled sourdough, and kedgeree scotch eggs. Portion size, in both cases, was spot on, and plates were artfully dressed. A delicious start to the meal!

But the starters, disappointingly, were the star turn. The seared tuna nicoise, served with half a gem lettuce, a wilted red onion side salad and far too much gloopy dressing, failed to entice, while the 10oz rib eye (the most expensive dish on the menu at £25) was chewy rather than tender. As mains do not go a long way, order sides aplenty. The beef dripping triple cooked chips are quite delicious and easily the side of choice. You can thank us later.

On ordering desert, however, things brightened up considerably. The indulgent baked vanilla cream, raspberry millefeuille merits recommendation, as does the chocolate orange mousse with mango and lime sorbet. Striking a charming balance in the mouth, the mousse put the meal right back on track.

It’s not a mind-blowing menu, nor is the interior revolutionary. But the service, value and the food are good. It's a great spot for a cocktail or last minute reservation, but by no means is Old Compton Brasserie a destination restaurant in its own right.