Strut and Cluck restaurant review, Shoreditch ★★★★★

In a nutshell: Shoreditch’s new Eastern Mediterranean opening proves turkeys aren't just for Christmas

The welcome: Snatching up a prime and roomy spot on busy Commercial Street, Strut and Cluck’s glass fronted exterior will no doubt invite a steady stream of walk-ins.

The room: Brightly lit and spacious, with rustic wood and covered with hanging plants, the venue is a little oasis from bustling Shoredtich. Candle lit tables and chrome lamps dot around an open counter bar and kitchen, and friendly wait-staff are on hand to explain the offerings.

The food: Pegged as an all-turkey restaurant (the bird, not the country) one might expect Strut and Cluck to err on the gimmicky side, but the quality of the dishes more than pull it through into the territory of food-scene heavyweights – don’t let the single ingredient emphasis fool you.

Strut and Cluck's comprehensive menu ticks all the boxes: typical Eastern-Mediterranean starters include a moreish plate of pitas, smokey aubergine & tahini, and the sharing dishes stunningly presented and reasonably priced. A roasted halloumi salad comes with a zingy citrus dressing and beetroot, lambs lettuce and roasted walnuts. But the best course by far is the cauliflower, lightly charred and drizzled in a lemon-infused crème fraîche – dotted over with nigella seeds and pomegranate: simple but surprisingly flavoursome.

The mains are less show-stopping but still score highly: here’s where the turkey emphasis comes into play: as a charcoal-grilled drumstick drizzled in tahini, pomegranate molasses and zhoug, or disguised into spicy koftas, served with currants and cashews, and seared okra and on a vibrant bed of beetroot hummus. If it’s versatility they’re after, they’ve certainly pulled it off: the lean meat is transformed into surprisingly succulent.

Would we go again? Yep, before the rest of London cottons on and the prices rocket.