Homeslice, Fitzrovia ★★★★★

Could it be? We think we've found the perfect central London pizza joint.

These days, it's pretty bold to launch a pizza business in London. the capital's not short of them. It was an especially bold move opening so close to the much loved Goodge Street institution ICCO. But, if you're in the neighbourhood, we urge you to try out the new Homeslice Wells street: everything it does, it does exceptionally well.

This Fitzrovia restaurant is the younger, and larger, sibling of Homeslice Neal's Yard, which opened in 2013. The premise is the same: laid back to the extreme. There are no starters, nor sides: you either order an enormous £20, 20 inch pizza, which feeds two very generously, or you order by the £4 slice. The decor's the same too: exposed brick artless walls, leather booths, enormous pizza oven, vintage patterned tiles: laid back and cool, but not too cool.

We started with a round of cocktails: a rosewater Iced Tea, complete with a dried rose (a lovely touch,that made up for the drink's slight wateriness) and a gorgeous cucumber-Mescal margarita, which was fiery yet fresh, and calmer than the boozy, salty sour punch-in-the-mouth that characterises most London margaritas.

The pizza menu is seasonal and constantly changing, with some interesting spin-offs, such as goat shoulder, cabbage and sumac yoghurt, pulled BBQ brisket and pickles, or aubergine, cauliflower cheese, spinach and harissa. We went for a half 'n' half, one side salami rocket and parmesan, the other artichoke, courgette, garlic oil and mozzarella. There's no cutlery, just a paper plate and a pile of much needed napkins. The toppings were fantastically flavoursome, not as rich as sourdough pioneers Franco Manca. The dough was thick, but not OTT. It's surprising how quickly 20 inches of pizza can disappear.

Friendly, relaxed, delicious, and good value: get down to Homeslice soon.