The CW top ten: best modern Indian restaurants, London
It's National Curry Week, but there's more to Subcontinental food than a chicken korma. Flora Hughes-Onslow picks the top fine dining Indian restaurants in London
Famous for its flamboyant and experimental menu, the Painted Heron is a fairly unusual establishment. Given that its position, tucked away in a residential Chelsea enclave, isn’t likely to bring in any passing trade, it has long had to rely upon its inventive and impressive food. A favourite of local residents, it offers up dishes ranging from juicy seafood starters with skilfully-spiced relishes and sauces, to hearty and flavoursome curry mains and beautiful dessert concoctions.
2. AMAYA, Belgravia
An almost painfully luxurious dining experience, a meal at Amaya is most certainly memorable. Much of the menu is cooked in front of diners, either on a tawa (iron plate), sigri (coal grill) or the tandoor hot clay oven and boasts a remarkably high standard of authentic Indian cuisine, with impeccable service and chic décor.
3. DISHOOM, Covent Garden and various locations
Dishoom is a self-styled Indian café in London’s West End (now with multiple London branches) modelled on the post-colonial eateries of Mumbai. While quite far off the real thing, Dishoom merits a visit for the atmosphere alone. Ceiling fans, dim lighting and framed retro Bollywood film posters evoke a somewhat sanitised India – but are charming nonetheless. Then there’s the taste of the food of course; a menu featuring delicious dahl, succulent marinated meats, refillable house chai tea, and a variety of lassis and imported drinks from Mumbai. Queues are extremely likely and booking is not possible, but for Indophile Londoners, a meal here is worth the wait.
4. GYMKHANA, St James's
Having become the first Indian restaurant to win the National Restaurant of the Year award only a few months ago, Gymkhana continues to go from strength to strength since its launch in September 2013. Providing a true flavour of Indian colonial clubs in the days of the Raj, it serves up a phenomenal range of delectable regional delicacies.
5. TAMARIND, Mayfair
Tamarind of Mayfair was the first Indian restaurant in the world to have been recognised with a Michelin star, and definitely deserved it. A basement venue, but far from dingy, the interior is elegant and muted, with an equally sophisticated menu. Great seafood and meat, masterfully put together classic Indian sauces and spices, and generous portions make this restaurant the real deal.
6. TRISHNA, Marylebone
Owned by the chef-restauranteur Karam Sethi, who also runs Gymkhana, Trishna is definitely a worthy contender for the best curry title. Located in Marylebone, this Michelin-starred eatery prides itself on its imaginative take on south West Indian food and is close to overtaking its sister in the popularity stakes.
7. RASOI, Chelsea
Translated as ‘kitchen’ in Hindi, Rasoi can be found in a historic Chelsea townhouse; a far cry from its roots you might say. Try the seven-course tasting menu, featuring banana wrapped mustard tilapia with asparagus cous cous; Champagne-rose petal sorbet with rose marmalade; and smoke cloud-herbed lamb rack, mustard mash, sauce Rogan Josh, and Stilton lamb tikki, alongside other delights.
8. CINNAMON CLUB, Westminster
9. BENARES, Mayfair
Benares has attracted an enviable regular clientele, including chef Gordon Ramsay, on the back of its culinary prowess and stylish interior. With a team led by Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar, the restaurant offers a range of mouth-watering haute cuisine delights, from tender lamb to delicate seafood.
10. MALABAR, Notting Hill
The Telegraph called it the classiest Indian in the West End, and we have to agree (as do its celebrity clientele, including national treasure Bill Nighy, and Blur frontman Damon Albarn). The menu features a range of fragrant and lovingly prepared classic Indian recipes – all at surprisingly reasonable prices.
