Nathalie, Mayfair review

What do you get when you cross the foyer of a sleek office block with a laboratory and a café? Nathalie, the latest opening from Santa Cruz co., that’s what. The grab-and-go eatery from restaurateur and interior designer Juan Santa Cruz is comprised of polished, marble interiors and staff dressed in lab coats, lending the experience of purchasing breakfast or lunch here a slightly clinical, unnerving edge.

Nathalie is the third London outpost from Chilean-born investment banker-cum-restaurateur Cruz. He opened his first ever restaurant, Casa Cruz, in Buenos Aires in 2004, following it up with a London branch in Notting Hill in 2015. A second restaurant, Isabel in Mayfair, opened soon after. With Nathalie, Cruz has set up shop in Hanover Square, turning his attention to the breakfast and lunch portion of the day. His inspiration? The search for lunch options both healthy and easily transportable to the office, which Cruz struggled with while working on Wall Street.

Neat shelves of fermented drinks, cold-pressed juices, healthy crisps and chic sweet brands line the walls at Nathalie. Vast glass containers of coffee beans from Brixton’s Assembly Coffee sit close to the coffee counter at the far end of the space, while biodegradable bowls are stacked close to the entrance, inviting diners to pick a size – small or large – and load up with their preferred ingredients.

The main savoury offering on our visit was a combo of kimchi, kale and egg. The kimchi was a bold choice to be serving at breakfast time, but pleasantly neutralised by the boiled egg. Fruits sprinkled with seeds and nuts comprised the sweeter options, while a selection of pastries were available, too (the almond croissant looked particularly good).

Counter seating is available for those who wish to dine in, but with the café lacking somewhat in ambiance, you might find you’d rather eat it elsewhere. Nathalie’s customisation app also means customers can order what they want ahead of arriving – ideal for getting in and out ahead of the lunch rush. Those with more time on their hands, though, can peruse the homeware and accessories designed by Cruz, including cutlery sets, embroidered napkins and scented candles. Heading straight from work to a dinner party? You can even buy champagne, wine and caviar at Nathalie, which looks a little misplaced on the shelves next to the healthy snacks, but could presumably come in handy.

The food at Nathalie won’t blow you away, but if it’s a healthy lunch or high-end snack you’re after, away from the bustle of neighbouring Oxford Street, is a squeaky clean spot to nip to.