We, the Culture Whisper team, have eaten our way around three of London's newest gastronomic ventures and here we bring you our verdict.
From BAO's sidestep into the world of ramen to 'comb to tail' eating at Humble Chicken, three new restaurant openings to get excited about this week.
With a pinch of caution, we can say that most chefs who move into a kitchen on Soho's prestigious Frith Street come armed with an original (or at least solid) concept and the flavours to make a restaurant sing. So seems to be the case for chef Angelo Sato, who's opened an intimate yakitori bar, Humble Chicken, to offer Londoners a taste of Japanese casual dining – the kind of eat-and-go that can be sandwiched between a shopping trip and West End play.
Only… this quick bite to eat is a fully foodie experience. Humble Chicken offers ‘comb to tail’ cooking, making use of every part of the bird, from cartilage and achilles to gizzards and even knee. Cooked over Bincho-tan charcoal on a traditional Japanese grill, Sato's menu includes Hakata pork belly, plus claypot rice dishes such as soba tempura with hakusai, shiso, tile fish and soy. For dessert, look forward to Japanese cheesecake and soft-serve affogato, while drinks include sake-based cocktails.
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The latest opening from the BAO team is a pivot from melt-in-the-mouth fluffy buns to steaming, oil-glazed bowls of hearty ramen. Bedding in on Shoreditch's trendy Redchurch Street, BAO Noodle Shop serves a menu heavily inspired by Taiwanese ramen. Here, wheat noodles are freshly prepared each morning and shimmering bowls of beef noodle soup take centre stage.
Long-standing BAO fans need not worry, though; three new takes on those pillowy soft buns are also available, including a sumptuous sounding panko shrimp croquette BAO with sweet and sour sauce. For dessert, look forward to the all-new BAOBING: a Taiwanese shaved ice dessert served here in either strawberry cheesecake or tiramisu flavour. As for drinks, Taipei-influenced cocktails (Midori Whisky Sour Ice and a Grape Sake Ice) are among the more unusual offerings, while BAO favourites including the Milk Tea Old Fashioned and a soft drink of peanut milk have also made the leap across to pastures new.
From the team behind Spiritland comes another new izakaya, this one in Shoreditch. Taking over the site once home to Merchants Tavern, Apothecary aims to capture the buzzy, sociable environment of Japan's izakaya bars, while blending in with its east London surroundings.
Snacks and small plates are the order of the day here, while larger offerings are weighted towards sushi, sashimi and hirata steamed buns. Perhaps a bigger pull than the food, though, are the cocktails – designed by Hamish Denny of Spiritland and Hawksmoor acclaim. Also available are hot and cold sakes and a selection of Japanese beers. Like Spiritland, regular live DJ sets will lend Apothecary a party atmosphere.
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