Ave Mario, Covent Garden review ★★★★★

First, they lured us in with Gloria – a middle finger to Shoreditch’s pared-back, small-plate-led dining scene with its lavish interiors, pumping beats and decadent dishes. Then they dazzled us with Circolo Popolare, Fitzrovia’s homage to the grandest of Italian trattorias complete with twinkling fairy lights, foliage-smothered walls and an unstoppable flow of rustic, colourful crockery overflowing with extravagant delights. Now, Big Mamma restaurant group has opened a third London restaurant, Ave Mario, in Covent Garden.

Can we ever have too much of a good thing? Not in the eyes of Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, co-founders of the Big Mamma group.
The 227-cover restaurant is split over two floors and spans an impressive 7,000 sq ft. Inside, whimsical escapism awaits: art deco interiors brandish retro neon signs advertising gelato and a fort of bottles barricades a gleaming bar-cum-DJ booth.

Ave Mario. Credit: Jérôme Galland

On the plate, starters include tears of salty mozzarella and a refreshing and acidic gazpacho which are highlights on our visit. These are followed by a silky, cheesy mess of ravioli and an all-new lasagne (to replace the signature 10-layer extravaganza), both fit to comfort any woes. For dessert, the mountainous ice-cream cake is a spectacle to witness and the star of the show, with slices carefully extracted from a towering glacier large enough to cater for the entire dining room.

Ave Mario. Credit: Jérôme Galland

The infectious, happy buzz of Big Mamma's former outposts has been merrily carried over here – and with booking available (up to 14 days in advance) you can secure a booth without joining the lengthy queue seen snaking from the door.

Remember, no trip to a Big Mamma restaurant is complete without having a peek inside the loos, which here will have you looking back at yourself, mid act, framed by fluorescent rainbows.

Ave Mario. Credit: Jérôme Galland

Yes, the team spirit cheers from behind the bar sound like forced hype, but Ave Mario, as a whole, is gloriously kitsch, and another Big Mamma success story, where a meal out is bound to be a jolly good knees-up.

Ave Mario, 15 Henrietta Street, London WC2E 8QG.