Best new restaurants: London, July 2023

The Portrait, Trafalgar Square

First came the revamp and subsequent rehang of the gallery spaces, the result of which saw the reopening of the National Portrait Gallery after three years. Now, its restaurant has been overhauled and made a destination for dining, thanks to chef Richard Corrigan stepping in to head up the kitchen. The Portrait pays homage to some of Corrigan's best creations with a menu featuring haddock and brown crab; a proper prawn cocktail; and a riff on the Irish classic of bacon and potato.

Elsewhere on site, ground floor café Audrey Green (part of the ever-growing Daisy Green collection) is serving Aussie-style brunch – don’t skip dessert when there’s lamingtons on the menu. Underground bar Larry’s is set to be another highlight: browse over 100 paintings celebrating former West End figures while working your way through its cocktail menu.

Mountain, Soho

Chef Tomos Parry, of Brat acclaim, is bringing his wood-fired cooking to the West End. Here, the menu is inspired by both the Welsh island of Anglesey, where he grew up, and the Basque Country, where he honed his culinary expertise. Highlights include a lobster caldereta (a stew of sorts); a whole pink bream roasted on a plancha (cooking iron); and wood-grilled cuts of meat. Go soon for the chance to tuck into a seasonal but unusual side of sunflower heads – we’re as curious as you are.

Dovetale, Mayfair

With Restaurant Story proudly flaunting two Michelin stars at its London Bridge home, and three-month-old Story Cellar giving rotisserie chicken a gourmet upgrade in Covent Garden, chef Tom Sellers is somehow already throwing open the doors to a new outpost. This one is ‘in-house’ at the new 1 Hotel Mayfair, and the USP is sustainability. Meats are stored and selected from an on-site butcher and the fish menu boasts day boat-caught sole Véronique. For the sweet-toothed, though, it’s all about the knickerbocker glory trolley, which promises to prepare your sundae right before your eyes.

Sonora Taqueria, Stoke Newington

Michelle Salazar de la Rocha and Sam Napier’s Netil Market success story Sonora Taqueria has swapped its pop-up taco hut for a bricks-and-mortar restaurant on Stoke Newington High Street. One of the best places in London to sample authentic Mexican fodder, it’s likely to bring its long queue with it, so head over soon to beat the crowds. For now, opening hours are just 12pm - 4pm, but keep an eye on its Instagram page, because breakfast burritos have been promised soon.

Pavyllon, Mayfair

French chef Yannick Alléno is one of the most celebrated in the world, with 15 Michelin stars to his name. His first London outpost, Pavyllon, has opened up inside the Four Seasons Hotel on Park Lane, but don’t let its stately interiors put you off: this is destination dining at its most inspiring. Menu highlights include a dish of steamed cheddar souffle and a plate of brioche-crusted sea bass quenelles. A hot tip: if the eye-watering prices push a full meal here out of your reach, head to the hotel’s Bar Antoine, where you can tuck into Alléno's bar snacks while you sip.

Manzi’s, Soho

Delayed by three years in part because of the pandemic but all the more exciting as a result, Manzi’s fish restaurant in Soho, courtesy of hospitality pros Corbin & King, is plating up affordable seafood on the corner of Greek Street and Bateman Buildings. It's been designed in the same spirit of Brasserie Zédel: fun and affordable with a distinct nautical theme by interior designer Brady William, who made Soutine so stylish.