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Food & Drink

Where to eat caviar in London

By CW Contributor on 1/4/2019

If the return of caviar champions Caviar Kaspia has you contemplating these little pearls of unadulterated luxury, then you’re not alone. Also known as Black Gold, caviar is a delicacy synonymous with extravagance, prosperity and opulence. All the good stuff then.
Not only that, but it has high levels of omega-3, and is said to alleviate symptoms of depression. The Tsars of Russia were known to eat caviar for breakfast, believing it gave them energy for the day. And in 25g of caviar there are only about 65 calories. Can it get any better? Oh yes, with its pop of salty umami flavour, followed by a buttery richness on the tongue, it tastes splendid.
Whether you’re an expert who knows your Beluga from your Baerii, or simply a roe enthusiastic keen to tuck into a tin, here are eight places in London to get your fix of the high life.

Caviar Kaspia

Any diehard fan of caviar will have fond memories of Caviar Kaspia, once a stalwart of roe-serving restaurants in Bruton Place. After it closed in the year 2000, we wondered if we’d have to jet to the original in Paris for their signature caviar-topped baked potato. Well, it’s time for the nostalgia to stop. After a toe-dipping pop-up in 2017 that marked its 90th birthday, the restaurant returns to Mayfair in April.

Details are still tantalisingly sparse, but if the Parisian menu is any indication of the fare, then we can expect dishes such as poached eggs with beluga caviar, blinis with smoked salmon and crayfish, and a dangerously enticing 'Treat Yourself' offering of Champagne and caviar.

WHEN

Due to open this April

WHERE

Caviar Kaspia
1a Chesterfield St, Mayfair, London , W1J 5JF

Bob Bob Ricard

We couldn’t have a list of hot caviar spots and not include this Soho institution. Lavish Baltic-inspired cuisine is key here, and alongside beef tartare, chicken kiev and lashings of ice-cold vodka, this thankfully includes caviar.

Choose the milder White Sturgeon, the Siberian sturgeon with its clean, pure finish, or go full throttle with rich, creamy Russian Oscietra Sturgeon. The Salmon Tartare Imperial is garnished with roe and served with 20g of caviar on the side, which we’re thoroughly in favour of. Since you’re living the luxe life, then sink into one of the art-deco booths and get to work on that ‘press for Champagne’ button. Oh so dangerous. Oh so wonderfully, wonderfully extravagant.

WHERE

1 Upper James St, Soho, London W1F 9DF

Baltic

Baltic is all about modern Polish cuisine in a sleek, contemporary setting. Housed in an eighteenth century former coach builder’s works, it’s been redesigned so that unfussy glamour is the primary aesthetic – think exposed brick, velvet curtains and snazzy art instillations.

You absolutely must order the Royal Oscietra Caviar served with chopped egg, onion and sour cream, paired with a glass of vodka – after all they have 70 by the glass and carafe, served ice-cold from the freezer. We also recommend heading to Baltic for a lavish brunch. Tuck into traditional dishes of pierogi dumplings and kaszanka placki washed down with a jug of Kavka vodka Bloody Marysia – alongside blinis with marinated herring, smoked salmon and Keta caviar, naturally.

WHERE

74 Blackfriars Road, London SE1 8HA

Jean Georges at The Connaught

Every now and again an occasion arises deserving of something extra special. We’re talking ‘graduates with First Class honours/gets promoted to VP/celebrating a milestone of friendship’ special. For times like these, we like to make a reservation at Jean-Georges at The Connaught.

Impossibly elegant, with stained glass accents by artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, this is as much as place for people watching as it is for enjoying a sensational meal. Treat yourself to a starter of warm egg Mimosa with caviar and croutons or, if you really want to push the boat out (and where better to do so?) then order 30g of the Imperial Beluga - it will only set you back a cool £400. In for a penny, in for (several hundred) pounds…

WHERE

The Connaught Carlos Place Mayfair London W1K 2AL

Kettners

Say you do want to channel the rulers of Imperial Russia and indulge in caviar for breakfast… hypothetically, where would one go?

We recommend Kettners Townhouse, the beautifully refurbished spot in Soho that brings a little old-school glam to the table. Here you can order your omelette with a spoonful of Exmoor caviar on the side, without generating any raised eyebrows from the waiters. In fact, any of the breakfast dishes can have this opulent addition – kedgeree, avocado on toast… the choice is yours. There’s something gloriously nouveau riche about ordering your Full English with a dollop of caviar, don’t you agree?

WHERE

29 Romilly St, Soho, London W1D 5HP

Randall & Aubin

This temple to seafood has been lighting up our lives on Soho’s Brewer Street for over 20 years now, and never fails to guarantee a good time. Come for the oysters, stay for the disco ball and banging tunes that almost require an extra bottle of Champagne. Cue hazy memories of chatting to your neighbours at the high marble benches, then wobbling off for ‘one more’ at Milk & Honey. Alongside their famous towers of fruits de mer, they also boast Royal Baerii Caviar with blinis, boiled eggs & crème fraîche on the menu. Glorious.

WHERE

14-16 Brewer Street, Soho, London W1F 0SG.

Caviar House and Prunier

When an establishment actually has the name of a particular dish in its title, one would hope they were delivering the goods. There’s absolutely no doubt that Caviar House & Prunier know which side their blini is buttered, and can provide an education in all thing roe-related. If you recognise the name, it may be because you’ve perched at one of circular bars pre-flight, and indulged in some airport champagne.

However, head to their stylish, glass-fronted establishment on Piccadilly for a much more luxurious experience. Their menu is varied – the caviar is from their own manufacturer and you can try 6 different kinds. The Prunier 'Paris' is delicious with its unique aromatic complexity and lower salt content, while their '2019 Love Edition' has hints of almonds and walnuts, leaving a long-lasting taste on the palate.

WHERE

161 Piccadilly, St. James's, London W1J 9EA

Dukes Bar

But what happens when we want to drink caviar, we hear you cry? Fear not, we have an answer to this, too. Head to Dukes bar, where celebrated head bartender Alessandro Palazzi mixes arguably the best martini in London (hey, if it’s good enough for Bond…)

The white-coated barmen will treat you like royalty, and you can now order a L'Orbe Baeri Martini. L'Orbe is a premium vodka that has a central cone filled with those delicious black pearls that slowly imbue the liquid with a creamy, rich, umami flavour. Alessandro stirs L'Orbe over ice with sake (instead of vermouth), and serves straight up in a martini glass with cocktail onions for a deliciously dry and savoury finish. It’s an absolute game changer.

WHERE

35 St James's Pl, St. James's, London SW1A 1NY