A chef's table experience at Aulis, review

It’s one of those sunny autumn days, and I am heading to Aulis, Simon Rogan’s chef’s table in Soho, which reopened in spring. It is quite a big deal. Rogan – whose restaurant L’Enclume in the Lake District holds three Michelin stars – launched Aulis in 2017 with the idea to welcome small groups of guests to a communal table for a one-of-a-kind tasting experience. The London space has just been entirely redesigned, and I have been invited to the relaunch. I arrive at 12:30pm on the dot, having (wisely) fasted all morning.

Aulis' chef table

Situated in St Anne’s Court, just off the buoyant and neon-illuminated Wardour Street, Aulis channels a chilled Soho vibe. It’s a small space hidden in a cobbled corner and not quite what you would expect from an ‘Etoilé Michelin' chef. I am immediately intrigued. The black entrance door with its mirrored glass reflects a brick wall full of tags and opens into an intimate lounge bar with dark wooden panels and plush banquettes in earthy shades. I am greeted with a glass of Oxney English sparkling wine by the sommelier, Charles Carron-Brown, who leads me over to my fellow diners. The head chef, Charlie Tayler, comes to say hello and explains how the whole experience will unfold. Before moving to the chef's table, though, we are to taste a few nibbles in the bar area.

Lounge bar area at Aulis. Chef in action at Aulis

Our first small plate is a gorgeous gooseberry tart bite with raw sea bream infused in coal oil and covered with flowers. The zinginess of the gooseberry contrasts with the pungent taste of coal – a feast for the eyes and palate.

Gooseberry tart

The menu predominantly uses ingredients sourced from Simon’s Lake District farm, and the next dish to arrive is a perfect example. The Wiltshire truffle pudding caramelised in homemade maple syrup and birch black garlic is simply sumptuous, the caramel enhancing the earthy flavour of the truffle.

Truffle pudding

The few nibbles to follow are perhaps less noteworthy, but we are soon whisked to the chef's table, an expansive marble countertop in a circular shape that surrounds the team in charge of our meal. More than 10 dishes are about to be served. Culinary conversations with the chefs and guests are rife. I marvel at the sous-chef techniques and try to keep up with what I am eating.

Pork doughnut

Some of the recipes are extraordinary. One of my highlights is the crab custard marinated trout roe infused with rosehip vinegar, which brings just the right amount of creaminess and crustiness. The barbecued Hereford beef, served with bone marrow sauce, homemade brioche and a dash of red wine from Oregon, is absolutely succulent. Perhaps the best beef I have ever tasted.

By the time desserts arrive, it is nearly 4pm. And while the carrot cake with sweet cheese is perfectly enjoyable, I must acknowledge that I may not be fully cut out for a 14-course tasting menu plus wine.

Dessert at Aulis

The whole experience, though, is one of a kind and absolutely worth booking for a special occasion. Meeting with chefs and fellow guests is a real treat, but reserving the whole space for the evening is also possible if you're able to align diaries far in advance.

Reservations are now open. Click here to book.