The culinary trends we need to know about now
Why it's hot to cook over charcoal, to drink vinegar and know the meaning of kaiseki
Here's what happens next: the wait staff will explain the menu is small plates and the kitchen sends out dishes as they are ready regardless of whether you are. They’ll probably advise choosing at least two dishes from each section starting with 'snacks' which used to be freebies called, rather quaintly, 'amuses-bouches'.
So where exactly are restaurant trends leading?
IMMERSIVE DINING
Diners are seeking a
more immersive experience, as I witnessed earlier this year at the incredible
Frantzen in Stockholm, a week after it became Sweden’s first 3 Michelin star
restaurant. Here the whole experience is
akin to being welcomed into the ultra stylish home of a very wealthy discerning
friend. This started in the penthouse
living room and followed through to the dining room/kitchen, with the chefs
bringing dishes combining Nordic, Japanese and produce-led French haute cuisine
to mesmerising, mostly over fire, effect.
Also in the vanguard with immersive dining is Gingerline, whose current production: Faculty of Education Summer School is as interactive and surprising as ever.
Frantzen restaurant, Stockholm
COLLABORATIONS
& RESIDENCIES ARE THE NEW POP-UPS
Demarcations are
becoming more fluid. Collaboration is
cool. Pop-ups are passé. The next wave of restaurant promotions are residencies
or menu (as with Instagram) takeovers.
Over the last fortnight I’ve experienced a preview of Radio Alice, Shoreditch’s ace sourdough pizza parlour, inviting several hip newcomers – from vegan Club Mexicana to West Africa-meets-Scandi Ikoyi – to do week long takeovers with guest pizzas. Similarly, 400 Rabbits has chef Chantelle
Nicholson (executive chef of Tredwell’s) guesting with an achingly on-trend,
vegan pizza inspired by her new book Planted: the first cheffy vegan
cookbook. And yes, her pizza has roast cauliflower
as the hero ingredient.
PLANT BASED
COOKING IS GOING MAINSTREAM
Plant-based is now the preferred term to vegan and it's a movement growing faster than we can
utter 'aquafaba' – you know, the chickpea water that plant-minded chefs use to make mayo,
meringues and even ice cream.
Creative plant-based dishes are de rigueur whether it is Ollie Dabbous’s exquisite raw vegetable starter with camomile dressing at Hide, or Shaun Rankin's entire vegan tasting menu at Ormer Mayfair.
EATING FOR OPTIMUM
HEALTH
Better still, more and more restaurants are considering the nutrient profile of each ingredient they use. Catherine Sharman at Apres Food Co in
Clerkenwell, is in demand with sports and health brands, and brilliantly
produces nourishing food that tastes delicious and makes you feel brilliant. Joey O'Hare, a Masterchef professional finalist, who is co-founder of High Mood Food Cafe in Duke Street, and opening another branch in Spitalfields Market Hall imminently, focuses on gut healthy food. The cool, contemporary cafe with plenty of calm, lounging space uses traditional preparation methods such as activating and fermenting to maximise the availability of nutrients and support digestion, whether in a salad or a matcha vegan cheesecake.
GLUTEN-FREE IS GRABBING ALL ROUND ATTENTION
Modernist dining
is likely to be gluten-free. Even
those without allergies are wising to up the benefits of more variety and
balance in their diet. For example roast buckwheat – used to add texture to salads and as a conventional flour alternative in desserts and cakes – is popping up on menus all over the place. Freelance baker/caterer Henrietta Inman's new book The Natural Baker has inspiring recipes and she volunteers weekly at Luminary Cafe, too. Look out too for Ethiopian grain teff used for injera (a fermented pancake) and in baking. Chickpea flour is another alluring gluten-free alternative. Meanwhile socca,
chickpea flour pancakes, are the new tacos.
GOING ALCOHOL-FREE
IS THE POUR DE JOUR
Not drinking has
become fashionably acceptable. Bars
such as Notting Hill’s Redemption sell only no alcohol drinks.
The Hakkasan Group with their Master of Wine has spent two years
working on the definitive no alcohol drinks list embracing fruit shrubs, drinking vinegars,
kombucha, juice blends, iced teas and grape juice made by highly respected vignerons.
FERMENTATION
Korean, originally thought of as the new cuisine craze, is now here to stay and kimchi is almost mainstream. Fermentation is becoming an almost cultish
obsession among chefs who pride themselves on the diversity of their fermenting
repertoire, with huge jars flaunting their fermentation prowess on show. No-one does this better than Ottolenghi’s
former executive chef Ramael Scully at his new restaurant Scully.
COOKING CREATIVELY
WITH FOOD WASTE
Merely talking
sustainability is no longer sufficient, entire menus made from waste food otherwise thrown away is now considered the height of sophistication, no doubt
influenced by the success of last year’s Selfridge’s pop-up WASTed and West
Kensington’s Refettorio Felix, where world-superchef Massimo Bottura invites all
his famous chef friends (from Francesca Mazzei of Sartoria to Jean-Philippe Blondel of Ducasse at Dorchester) to regularly cook for the cause using only leftover foods.
SOUTH AMERICAN INFLUENCES
More regional and
diverse South American cuisine is on the rise.
Colombian Arepas, between a fluffy flatbread and muffin, are on the menu
at Scully and there’s even a new restaurant dedicated to Arepas, called Arepa & co.
OUR LOVE AFFAIR
WITH JAPAN IS DEEPENING
Our love affair
with Japanese food is deepening beyond sushi. Restaurateurs are looking to Izakaya – Japanese bistros – for inspiration.
Expect to see informal bistros specialising in yakitori including the excellent Jidori founded by Brett Redman of Neptune, with a restaurant in Covent Garden now as well as Dalston. Yakitori are skewers (from
offal to vegetables) cooked over a special bincho charcoal (another take on the
obsession with going primeval and cooking over fire). Jidori's Japanese head chef Shunta Matsubara cooks over a special yakitori BBQ imported from Tokyo. At the top level, chefs are fascinated with
kaseiki dining, the ultra-seasonal, multi course dining served at Japanese inns
or ryokan. Former Fat Duck chef, Kyle
Connaughton opened Single Thread in Sonoma, Northern California, last year
using mostly Asian ingredients grown by his wife.
Meanwhile Japanese yuzu – between a lime and a mandarin though far more exotic – is flavouring everything from miso to labneh, soft serve ice cream (the only way to eat gelato) and even tonic water. The Engllish Wasabi company are even selling trees to grow one's own yuzu.