Koba restaurant review ★★★★★

Barbecuing your own meat might not sound like the basis of a glamorous evening out, but Koba, Korean BBQ restaurant is chic and understated. With a menu rich in kimchi, sake cocktails and the signature meaty Korean wraps, it's been one of Fitzrovia's more unusual dining spots since opening in 2005, and has now reopened after a revamp.

Each table has its own grill, and vents hang down like lamps to suck up every last wisp of smoke. And though the table BBQ is the main event, there's an enticing and broad selection of appetisers. The Tofu Kimchi is smokey and cut through with rich, salty chunks of pork and the pan-fried Patterned Rice Cakes are crispy then chewy.

Then comes the BBQ. You can pick one dish to grill or go all out with a selection, of meat seafood or both. The signature Koba BBQ Selection is a vast platter loaded with raw meat and fish. Rib eye, beef spare rib, pork belly, spicy chicken, prawn, baby octopus and vegetables. At £35 for two sharing it's steep — but generous on meat, though surprisingly stingy with the vegetables.

We'd looked forward to taking over the prongs and playing at being master-chefs. But the ever attentive staff take charge of the BBQ. At first it's a novelty having the meat grilled for you. But you then have to keep up with the pace at which meats are cooked and you face regular interruptions as the staff lean over you to flip chicken fillets.

The marinaded beef is a highlight and when wrapped in lettuce leaves, in traditional Korean style, the BBQ is fresher and crisper than our Western version, though we would have liked more a selection of dipping sauces and kimchi to liven up the wraps.

As you have to buy sides of lettuce and rice to accompany the meat and fish, it gets pricey. But Koba is certainly an interesting experience and a stylish showcase of Korean cuisine.