Review: Tredwell's Restaurant ★★★★★

We’ve had the grandeur of St. Pancras’ Gilbert Scott Restaurant, and the prestige of the double Michelin-starred restaurant Marcus. It’s something of a surprise, then, to hear that celebrity chef Marcus Wareing’s latest venture, Tredwell’s in Seven Dials, is ‘informal, but informed’.

There’s still something of Masterchef star Wareing’s trademark flash about the place though. Arriving at the venue diners are greeted by an intriguing frenzy of mirrors, black surfaces and gold-details, à la Studio 54.

The menu, though, is fuss-free and hedonistic: think foie gras parfait, sliders, burgers, chops and dumplings.

Two Down the Apples and Pears cocktails were welcome and sweet. Service, though, was slightly leisurely, and we were more than peckish when our starters arrived. The grilled prawns with sweet-corn, cornbread and prawn butter was delicious; the meat was plump and sweet and the cornbread wonderful; a wonderful twist on more traditional prawn starters. The beetroot salad with spelt and walnuts, though, didn’t really hold its own; it was bland and the ingredients didn’t gel.

For mains, we chose roasted monkfish, which was to die for - meaty and perfectly cooked and wonderfully rich butternut Squash and Sage dumplings. The portions were slightly diminutive, but the charming waiter selected perfect, accompanying sides of roast sweet potato and crunchy greens. For dessert, we'd suggest the clementine and white chocolate parfait with clementine curd if you're feeling adventurous, or a "virtuous" brownie with coconut yoghurt for a clean twist on an old favourite.

The food could have been prompter, and the black and gold colour scheme is a touch daring, but for the most part dining at Tredwell’s is a very pleasant experience.