The Richmond restaurant review, Hackney ★★★★★

Everyone's been talking about The Richmond, Hackney's latest celebrity hotspot. Don't be fooled by the name – this is no gastropub but a fine dining neighbourhood restaurant.

With a relaxed atmosphere, step behind the green curtain and you'll find yourself in The Richmond's quiet and intimate dining room: with wooden panelling, and cushioned seats, this is no pretentious haute cuisine but a relaxed, warm way to spend a Sunday afternoon in a period setting.

The menu is fairly seafood heavy, with fresh fish and roast meat taking pride of place. All of The Richmond's food is all sourced directly from Borough Market and as a result the menu changes regularly.

Start off with a selection of oysters from their raw seafood bar – you're invited to choose from a checklist of different breeds, from British to Japanese, and it's worth it: the Richmond menu walks you through the different flavours, textures and richness: we'd recommend the Lindisfarne Oysters, large, meaty and light, they're served with a selection of garnishes. You're also invited to try the Richmond's oyster shooters, served atop an – extra spicy – shot of salted Bloody Mary.

On with the starters: a wood roasted beetroot salad served with apple, caraway and a healthy offering of goats curd is a stunningly presented plate of food, though the curd is so slathered on we doubt you'll finish it. Also enticing is the seabass tartare served with Rye crackers, oyster mayonnaise and chives, light but flavoursome. The best starter, though, is octopus panzanella: served with incredibly juicy Essex tomatoes and simply garnished with basil and olive.

The mains are perhaps less thrilling than the small plates: a smoky roast Hampshire pork chop served with sweetcorn purée and girolles mushrooms is tasty but nothing mindblowing, and the hake, served with liguarian tomatoes, chickpeas and samphire was perhaps slightly overcooked. All the wines are organically sourced and complex: the Viogner in particular packs a sharp punch. You can also choose from cocktails and a selection of organic whiskeys, which, like the wine, hit the palate with a rather rudimentary bang.

The shimmering glass bar, modern hung lighting complements and modernises the period setting and makes for a warm and relaxed experience. For its atmosphere, The Richmond is definitely a welcome addition to the Hackney area – and the food isn't half bad either.