Macellaio restaurant review, Southwark ★★★★★

When we visited Macellaio’s first branch in Kensington earlier this year, it was little short of a revelation. With steakhouses ten a penny, to find one done in the Italian style – and incredibly well to boot – was a treat that merited genuine applause. There is no such thing as too much acclaim, and it comes as little surprise to find that its founder Roberto Costa has expanded, with new branches in Exmouth Market and now its latest, in Union Street in Southwark. Has the magic continued?

The answer is ‘mostly’. It’s a pain to find – located in the arches, you’ve got to have your wits, rather than Google maps, about you – and the design is somewhat more modern and modish than the old-school trattoria feel of the Brompton Road outpost, which is something of a pity. Conceived on a grand scale – there’s an on-site butcher, amongst other innovations – it nonetheless felt a bit quiet on a Wednesday evening shortly after opening, but this will change when word gets around.

The food is, as with its sister branch, exemplary. Beef tartare with Stilton was a fine appetite-whetter, not least with the addition of crescia, a delightful Italian cheese bread. The steak is, of course, superb; the uncooked meat is brought over to your table initially to excite your approval, and then proudly returned in tender form, served simply with rosemary and salt, and chips and broccoli on the side. Desserts may or may not be necessary, but the tiramisu is very good indeed. As you’d expect from somewhere of this ilk, the Italian wine list is a fine and varied thing, and the Sangiovese red that accompanied our steak was a big, gutsy number that more than stood up to its carnivorous counterpart.

So, early days yet. It’s not quite up to the giddy heights of its elder sibling, but when it’s fuller and buzzier then this promises to be one of the most notable SE1 additions of the year. And we can’t wait to return for another visit soon.