Where to eat in Soho: superlative flavours from around the world

Ember Yard

Ember Yard in Soho underwent a big refurb in the latter part of 2019, but it’s since reopened with shiny new decor, a basement bar and sizzling new head chef, Christian Parisi, at the helm. Part of the Salt Yard Group (Opera Tavern, Salt Yard etc), the restaurant originally opened in 2013,-turning heads with its Spanish-Italian tapas style dishes, many of which are smoked or charred over a wood-fired grill. Also special is its ability to feel simultaneously like a buzzy Soho bar and a quality, destination restaurant.

Do opt for a set menu, the team here are knowledgeable and keen to show off their wares. And do insist, if you can, that the marinated chicken thighs are included: the tender slices of meat arrive on a plate-like disc of celeriac, itself doused in a jus of truffle and date mascarpone. As for vino, put your trust in the knowledgeable sommeliers. Our Micina Nerello Mascalese, a red from the Terre Siciliane region of Sicily was light yet full-bodied and gorgeously fragrant.

10 Greek Street

While Soho is at the cutting edge of exciting culinary fusions, offering ample chance to tuck into exemplary dishes from every corner of the world, it also does justice to the city’s ongoing love affair with seasonal small plates served in an elegant, pared-back setting. If you fancy just this, look to 10 Greek Street.

The kitchen is headed by Aussie-raised chef Cameron Emirali, who serves polished takes on simple classics (padron peppers and burrata among them), as well as exotic specials (hello, cockle fritters) and hearty plates of pure home comfort (think salt beef, horseradish and gherkins). For sweets, expect to tuck into seasonal crumbles, chocolate fondant, or lighter delights such as lemon and gin sorbet. Drinking? Keep it local with a glass of sparkling wine from Sussex.

Ceviche

A colourful parade of Peruvian dishes, party vibes and the best pisco sours in town await at the original branch of Ceviche on Frith Street. Opened in 2012 by Martin Morales, the restaurant became an instant hit and, with London expected to see a surge in Peruvian restaurants and pop-ups in 2020, it’s still very much a fashionable place to dine. Dishes focus on the flavours of Peru’s coast and its capital, Lima. Highlights include the sublime salmon ceviche with passionfruit tiger’s milk, mixed quinoa, salsa criolla and watercress.

Fatt Pundit

Relatively new fusion restaurant Fatt Pundit showcases the rarely celebrated dishes of Kolkata’s Hakka Chinese immigrants. This Indo-Chinese joint boasts the hip vibes, cool beats and minimalist decor fit to suit its trendy surroundings, while serving the sort of original and exquisite cuisine that makes it more than worthy of its place on a road chock-full of world-class restaurants. Seriously, between the kid goat momos (warm dumplings stuffed with juicy, fragrant balls of meat); spicy lollipop chicken (served in a sumptuous, sticky Szechuan chutney); and crackling spinach (crisp shreds of greenery served with a sweet yogurt, sticky date and plum sauce, and a peppering of pomegranate), this is a meal you’ll find yourself thinking about every time hunger strikes.

Hoppers

Hoppers, from the consistently good JKS restaurant group (Gymkhana, Bao etc), can be credited for putting modern Sri Lankan cuisine on the central London map. Thanks to follow-up branches in Marylebone and King’s Cross, you stand more chance of getting a table at the no-bookings original, too. As for what to order, hoppers – the namesake dish and pinnacle of Sri Lankan cuisine – are a must: bowl-shaped fermented rice and coconut milk pancake filled with chutneys and sambols. A star turn, for carnivores, is the bone marrow varuval and roti.

And to drink? Arrack, a Sri Lankan spirit made from fermented coconut sap, forms the basis of several cocktails and is the ingredient to opt for if you want to sip authentically.

Temper

Hop up onto a counter seat overlooking the open kitchen (or withdraw from it in a private booth) at this Soho smokehouse and prepare to reevaluate everything you thought you knew about grilling. The follow-on to Islington’s Smokehouse from Neil Rankin, and the first of a trio of Temper restaurants to pop up across the city – each with a slightly different niche – the original Temper in Soho is still the best of its bunch, and the place to head for a superlative meat feast in a trendy setting (pared-back interiors, pumping music etc). Aside from fire-scorched steaks and wood oven-stewed carnitas, the famed cheeseburger taco is a must, as are is the lime-drizzled, jalapeno-speckled burrata, and smacked cucumber, from the sides portion of the menu. Wash it all down with an oh-so-smokey Mezcal Negroni, or its gingerbread equivalent if you’re hankering after something sweet.

Lina Stores

Small-plate pasta dishes and pastel-coloured interiors are the order of the day at Lina Stores in Soho, the first restaurant from the family-run deli on Brewer Street, which has been providing the city with authentic Italian produce since it first opened in 1944. The pasta is fresh, made each morning at the Brewer Street Deli, while other Italian delights can be found on the antipasti portion of the menu (Aubergine Polpette & San Marzano Tomato is not to be missed).

We recommend sitting at the counter for the full mid-century Italian café experience to admire the retro fridge, chat to the chefs and watch their deft pasta serving technique. Downstairs is cosy with whitewashed brick walls, great nostalgic photos of Lina Stores and so-covetable retro eau de nil chairs, though rather too warm on a balmy evening. A small selection of Italian classic cocktails and Italian wines are on offer. Do try the Italicus Sour. It's a bergamot liqueur recently restored to fashion, mixed with gin, a touch of sugar and egg white – it is superbly zesty.

The Good Egg

If it's brunch you're after, you can do no better in Soho than at The Good Egg, a Kingly Court sibling to the Stoke Newington original, where Jerusalem-style brunches and Tel Aviv-inspired flavours are the order of the day. Roll up for babka, shakshuka and the best pitta, as The Good Egg brings Middle Eastern/Jewish food to Soho with 'chutzpah'.

Xu

Xu marks a new direction from the dream team behind the wildly successful Bao. This time, instead of queuing for the island’s famed fluffy buns, they are offering a broader and more sophisticated approach to Taiwanese cuisine. They’ve moved from street food to an elegant restaurant that looks like it has landed in Soho from 30' Taipei, and, yes, you can book.

Kiln

Kiln is probably one of the most thrilling places in London to eat, especially at the long steel counter with full action views of the kitchen. It's mesmerising. Inspired by his experiences travelling in northern Thailand, owner/chef Ben Chapman built the wood-fired kiln himself and devised the system of cooking rural Thai delights with claypots, woks and grilling over chestnut wood embers.

Barrafina

Life may seem perfect with a wibbly-wobbly tortilla… that's certainly what Barrafina devotees adhere to and we wouldn't differ. Siblings Eddie and Sam Hart were on to a winner when they decided, back in 2007, to open a tapas bar modelled on their beloved Cal Pep.

To their surprise and delight, Barrafina acquired a Michelin star in 2014 under Nieves Banyan Mohacho, who then left to open Sabor. Fear not: on our recent visit, everything we ordered (and everyone over-orders, it is impossible not to) remained joyously as exemplary as ever. The only caveat? With no bookings taken, those who arrive later than 5:30pm can expect to queue.