Non-toxic sun cream: Why choosing a mineral sunscreen might be the way to go
We are all on board with the SPF. We know it's one of the most important factors when looking at how our skin ages (or doesn't) and skin health. Countless beauty gurus, dermatologists, and Drs sing about the benefits of everyday use. This should be a beauty no-brainer - find a formula you like and slather copious amounts on face and exposed limbs every day, rain or shine.
However, a recent backlash has emerged, and sunscreen ingredients' safety has been under scrutiny. They are being investigated for their safety to your health, hormones and the planet. As a result, SPF has suddenly become a complicated quest.
"The safety of sunscreen ingredients is subject to ongoing research and regulatory evaluation," a UK board-certified dermatologist, Dr Chaudhry of Scandinavian Biolabs, says.
Adding, "Certain ingredients in sunscreens are believed to be harmful to human health and the environment. Common ones to avoid are oxybenzone and octinoxate, suspected of disrupting the endocrine system, and retinyl palmitate, which could accelerate skin damage and cancer when exposed to the sun. These substances can interfere with the normal function of hormones in your body. For instance, oxybenzone is believed to mimic estrogen, leading to an excess of this hormone, which can disrupt normal bodily processes. When applying sunscreen, these chemicals can get into your body through your skin."
Crucially more tests are on-going – but according to EWG (Environmental Working Group), some of the chemicals and ingredients in sun cream have been reported in 'breast milk, urine and blood plasma samples and sunscreen users can inhale ingredients in sunscreen sprays and ingest some of the ingredients they apply to their lips,' So really – you are what you eat when it comes to choosing an SPF – so choose wisely.
Reef friendly – Can it be trusted?
As for reef-friendly logos, Chaudhry says, "While they are a good starting point, it's worth noting that there are no regulated standards for what constitutes 'reef-safe'. As a result, some products may still contain ingredients harmful to marine life."
Alicia Gallup, the co-founder of The Eco Edit, agrees, "Logos signifying that a sunscreen is 'reef-safe' or 'reef-friendly' help identify sunscreens that don't have oxybenzone and octinoxate, which have been shown to cause coral bleaching. However, that doesn't necessarily mean they won't contain other chemical ingredients. In addition to a 'reef-friendly' logo, you should always check to ensure the active ingredient is non-nano zinc oxide and titanium dioxide."
Mineral vs Chemical sunscreens - why mineral sunscreens might be the way to go
The mineral options might be the better bet, especially if you have sensitive skin, as they lead to fewer reactions than their chemical SPF counterparts.
The mineral versions create a physical barrier on the skin's surface, reflecting and scattering UV rays away from the skin. This immediate action provides protection as soon as the sunscreen is applied. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, need time to be absorbed into the skin before they become effective – so you need to wait 20-30 minutes before leaving the house for them to work efficiently.
Mineral is also more stable in sunlight and won't degrade as quickly. The playoff here is the texture. They sometimes leave a white cast over the skin and take more time to apply.
Not forgetting, not all mineral sunscreens are made equal – the good ones will list zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide only and often go further with non-nano statements, which are a good thing.
However, some brands might state just mineral or zinc and be a cocktail of mineral and chemical. Start reading the labels.
Here is a list of ingredients you should avoid in your SPF
1. Oxybenzone: is a common sunscreen ingredient that absorbs UV rays. However, it has been associated with potential hormone disruption and allergic reactions. In addition, some studies suggest that oxybenzone may have adverse effects on coral reefs when washed off in oceans and might have a link to certain cancers.
2. Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate): another UV-filtering ingredient linked to hormone disruption concerns. It has also been found to have potential environmental impacts on aquatic life.
3. Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate): is a form of vitamin A sometimes added to sunscreens for its antioxidant properties. However, concerns have been raised about its potential to increase the risk of skin cancer when exposed to sunlight. Therefore, it's important to note that this ingredient differs from other forms of vitamin A used in skincare products.
4. Homosalate: is a chemical sunscreen ingredient that can penetrate the skin and may disrupt hormone function. It is also known to break down under sunlight, potentially reducing its effectiveness over time.
5. Parabens: are preservatives commonly used in cosmetic products, including sunscreens, to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. Some people may choose to avoid parabens due to concerns about their potential hormone-disrupting properties.
So, you have what to avoid. But here's what is considered a safer option to buy for you and your family.
Best mineral sunscreens to buy in the UK
Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen, £24
Type: cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: Powered by sustainably sourced squalane — which means skin gets a heavy-hitting dose of moisture and blends well on all skin types when massaged in, and of course, it's made without nasties and is vegan and cruelty-free.
Supergoop Mineral Sunscreen, £34
Type: light cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: Ideal for wearing under make-up, it's super hydrating, pretty sheer and blocks blue light – so perfect for every day.
ULTRA VIOLETTE Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial Skincreen, £34
Type: light cream
Sun Protection Level: 50+
Why it's approved: The best-selling face suncream at Space NK, the lightweight formula leaves no tell-tale white cast and is infused with kakadu plum, a vitamin C-rich, antioxidant fruit extract that helps to protect the skin from damaging free radicals and environmental stressors.
The addition of peptide dragosine helps to shield skin from the full spectrum of the sun’s rays as well as plumping and hydrating the skin.
FENTY SKIN Hydra Vizor Sunscreen Moisturiser, £35
Type: light cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: A mineral SPF moisturiser that was made for makeup. Fenty Skin’s lightweight sunscreen is packed with skin-loving ingredients including Niacinamide, Kalahari Melon, Baobab and Hyaluronic Acid- working overtime to even skin tone, refine pores and boost the skin’s moisture barrier.
Even better, it’s refillable.
Olivanna Sun Defence Drops, £56
Type: serum
Sun Protection Level: 50
Why it's approved: This adds a glow to the skin, and for a mineral, SPF is super lightweight and not too ghostly and has a bounty of skincare benefits.
Humanrace Ozone Protection Gift Set, £85
Type: light cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: This has been designed with all skin tones in mind and contains non-nano zinc oxide, aloe, and squalane. We also love the pump action bottle, making it even easier and a dream to apply.
Babo Botanicals Clear Zinc, £26
Type: cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: It contains non-nano Zinc, is water resistant for 80 minutes and is fragrance-free and hypoallergenic, so perfect for babies and grown-ups with sensitive skin.
ATTITUDE Body Sunscreen Stick, Broad Spectrum UVA and UVB, £19.77
Type: stick
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: A broad spectrum, reef-friendly sunscreen formula is made from non-nano zinc oxide, is a safe and effective sunscreen filter and is also EWG certified. It has a light tropical summer scent and is housed in a recyclable cardboard tube to reduce single-use plastic. Plus, it's vegan and contains no plastic or nasty ingredients.
SeventyOne Eco Sun Shield Invisible, £27
Type: cream
Sun Protection Level: 50+
Why it's approved: The products contain no nasties (for consumers or the environment), parabens, sulfates, silicones, nanoparticles, and microplastics.
SeventyOne Percent Founder Raphaël Vannier says, "The perfect product does not exist, but at SeventyOne, we have always sought to combine efficiency for skin protection (UVA and UVB) and environmental respect. As a precautionary principle, SeventyOne Percent has been excluding many ingredients suspected to be endocrine disruptors, such as octocrylene, and will continue to evolve our formulas as research develops.
There is currently no regulatory framework or consensus to evaluate the impact of the products on the environment. However, we work with independent experts to help eco-design our products and limit environmental impact."
Neal's Yard Remedies Wild Rose Moisturising, £28
Type: rich cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: It's hard to find organic suncare – but Neal's Yard Remedies have mastered it with this beautifully-scented rose cream. Its thick-ish consistency is not ultra-white, so it doesn't leave a ghostly cast when massaged in well.
Blue Lizard Sensitive Mineral Sunscreen with Zinc Oxide, £24.99
Type: cream
Sun Protection Level: 50+
Why it's approved: This is the No. 1 Pediatrician Recommended Mineral-Based Sunscreen Brand in the US. The Blue Lizard Active, Baby, Face, Kids, Sensitive, Sensitive Face and Sport Sunscreens are all paraben, benzene, phthalate, gluten, PABA and alcohol-free. Depending on usage, it does layer on a bit thicker but offers brilliant protection.
SUMMER FRIDAYS Shadedrops Broad Spectrum Mineral Milk Sunscreen, £36
Type: serum
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, this serum-like formula helps defend the skin from free radical damage and improve the health and appearance of the complexion. Perfect for beach holidays, it is reef-friendly and travel-sized.
REN CLEAN SKINCARE Clean Screen Mineral 50ml, £34
Type: cream
Sun Protection Level: 30
Why it's approved: This mattifying sunscreen is good to both skin and planet without compromising on performance. Silicon-free, it won't clog pores and leaves skin smooth and ready for makeup.
iS Clinical Extreme Protect, £80
Type: rich cream
Sun Protection Level: 40
Why it's approved: A botanical-based formula that combines antioxidant-rich ingredients with broad spectrum sun protection to defend skin from external polluters and aggressors.