Bill Cunningham: a snapshot of history

Following the death of street photographer Bill Cunningham at 87, we have a look at his glittering career capturing New York's changing styles

Bill Cunningham photographer
There was an outpouring of love and admiration from every corner of the fashion world after the visionary and renowned photographer of "fashion on the streets", Bill Cunningham, died on Saturday aged 87.

Chronicler of clothing via his “On the Street” column in The New York Times, Cunningham was fascinated by the differences in fashion and the creative nature of design. His observations changed the nature of fashion photography from promotion to anthropology – noticing everything from Birkin bags to fanny packs.

Cunningham was widely considered a man of integrity, famously never accepting a pay check for the work he delivered, saying that if he wasn't on a publication's payroll, then his work would not be compromised. Deeply uninterested in celebrity, he was gripped by the power of fashion, used as both self expression and as armour, by people navigating the choppy waters of design in an ever evolving world. His photographs capture the real-life history of people living their lives.

He was awarded France's Légion d'Honneur in 2008, making him an officer in the order of arts and literature. Speaking to the crowd he said: "I'm not in it for the celebrities in their free dresses. Look at the clothes, the art, the cut, the new cut, the inspiration, the cloths – that's everything. It's the clothes, not the celebrity and not the spectacle."

We go through our favourite style moments through the ages – little time capsules captured by the great man himself.




Bill Cunningham: 1960s New York.


Still from Bill Cunningham New York 2010 documentary

Hippies in New York sway in unison in Central Park wearing outlandish headgears and tasseled suede jackets. These images of every day New York life capture the era completely – from afros to flares – in quintessential Cunningham style.


Bill Cunningham on Anna Wintour


Still from Bill Cunningham New York 2010 documentary

In an interview for the 2010 documentary, "Bill Cunningham New York", which premiered at the Museum of Modern Art to rave reviews, Anna Wintour pointed out: "I've said it many times, 'we all get dressed for Bill'". Caught on the move in her day-to-day outfits, the arbiter of style was captured by Cunningham in off-key moments, without any of the pose or styling that defined fashion photography at the time. Refusing to be swept up in the glamour and glitz of celebrity, Cunningham searched for authenticity even when his subject happened to be famous.

Bill Cunningham, 1980s New York


Still from Bill Cunningham New York 2010 documentary

Puffy jackets, big hair and oversized animal prints: the 80s is here in all its glitz and glamour. Cunningham's street shots of normal people on their bikes or crossing the road serve as beautiful anthropological snapshots of the city.

Bill Cunningham: modern day



Riding around his adopted home town of New York, Cunningham famously dressed in his signature blue French worker jacket. He was famous for his humble nature and his kind camera – as Annette de la Renta said: "He never took a cruel picture." His 40 years chronicling clothing for the The New York Times gives us a sense of how future generations will see the clothes we wear in years to come.

Bill Cunningham: rich and famous



From Princess Diana to Oscar de la Renta – those who could dress with style would be captured by Bill. Here, a range of 80s styles flash before us and on the backs of some of the most famous people on the planet. His big smile and warm sense of humour will be missed and his works treasured as snapshots of our changing world.


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