Foodie Review: Taste of London

Sara Newman cooks up a review of the delicious Taste of London foodie festival

I skipped breakfast, ate lunch at 11.00 and wore forgiving trousers. The day before, my willing foodie companion had arrived at my desk with the map, her selections and suggested route around the event already marked out. 

Not to be put off by the grey skies and a sense that rain wasn’t too far away, we were at the gates for 17.30 as the second session of day started. We marched straight off to Duck and Waffle  - with a 3 month waiting list for the venue itself, it was vital that we tasted their famed Braised Ox Cheek. It didn’t disappoint: it was delicious with a satisfying savouriness. The cheesy polenta the cheek sits on soaked up the gravy beautifully. Initially trepidatious about the deep fried pickle it was garnished with, we both agreed it is how all pickles should be served.

Generously, Sushi Samba  was housed next door, so I swept in and devoured their Wasa Roll, with Shrimp Tempura, quiona, shistio, coriander, wagyu chorizo, spicy mayo and red onion. Fresh, unusual and tangy, it’s got to be followed up with a full meal in their Heron Tower London home.

With no time to lose, Salt Yard  (sister restaurant to the Opera Tavern  and Ember Yard ) was next. Although they offered four dishes, there really was only once choice, The Iberico Pork and Foie Gras Burger with manchego cheese. Now, here’s the thing: it’s not a burger, it’s a taste sensation, a party in your mouth and it’s unfair to compare it to any other burger you’ve eaten before. Try one. 

I expected the queue at MEATLiquor to match that of their Marylebone outfit, but pleasingly so early in the evening we had their Double Bubble Cheeseburger in hand within minutes. There was something very special and a tad naughty about the American cheese and mustard mix that drew us back, less than an hour later, to eat another without even a modicum of guilt. 

The trend in London of refined American classics continues at Taste. Even The Truscott Arms  jumped on the burger bandwagon with a potted Crab and Shrimp Burger, which I didn’t have room for but looked incredible. Avenue  provided us with the tantalising offer of Mac & Cheese Crisps; breaded, with smoked tomato sauce. I’m a sucker for anything Mac & Cheese, and my mouth watered as the three crispy treats were placed in front of us. Tasty? Yes. Moreish? Yes. Mac & Cheesy enough? Not quite. 

The night before, I’d stumbled across a lovely pop up bar in Hoxton Square run by Fever-Tree tonic water. Their stall at Taste is but an amuse bouche of their presence in East London, ‘the summer’s hottest G&T hangout’. If you’re partial to a little mother’s ruin, this bar is a must. 160 different gins and ‘Fever-Tree’ tonic, which if you haven’t yet tried takes this classic beverage to a whole new level. I’ll be going back there for sure.

We caught ‘the ever popular’ Valentine Warner  in the Cook Skill’s Theatre. He was authoritative and charismatic and, dare I say better looking in real life than on TV. We gaped at Ben Tish from Salt Yard and Tam Storrar from Blanchette as they tempted us with some outdoor rustic kitchen action. We enjoyed watching children and couples dance to the electro swing being played on the bandstand and wound our way round the taste of Thailand, shamelessly taking every free sample offered to us. We left, having eaten all we could, imbibed the tasty gins and German Vodkas and drunk in the wonderful, garden party-like atmosphere with the knowledge that London really does have taste.

Only 152 days until Taste of Christmas . See you there? I’ll probably be hungry again by then…

Want to read more? Members enjoy full access to all Culture Whisper's arts previews, exclusives and features. Click here to take our cultural quiz and get a month's free trial.