Umu, Mayfair

Behind an ultra-discreet heavy oak door on Bruton Place, this Japanese restaurant serves dishes that are arguably the closest to the famed kaiseki style – the multi-course, micro-seasonal dining of Kyoto – to be found in London. Chef Yoshinori Ishii, who has worked in many of Japan's best restaurants, not only serves revelatory sushi, but he makes most of the extraordinarily beautiful ceramics and arranges the flowers in the restaurant.

Umu believes in sourcing from the UK where possible: so the wasabi is from the only British producer and much of the fish is from Cornwall, caught and prepared according to Japanese tradition. The breathtaking sashimi is sliced so thinly it is almost transparent. This is refined Japanese dining at its pinnacle and there is an exceptional wine list to match. It is an unforgettable experience, and for those picking up the bill, so is the tab!