Ooty restaurant review ★★★★★

Banish notions of scruffy curry houses. Ooty brings elegance and panache to Indian cuisine.

Named after a small town in Tamil Nadu, the Marylebone restaurant celebrates the ingredients and dishes of southern India. The former site of Galvin Bistro de Luxe on Baker Street has been transformed into an stylish three story eatery, spanning fine dining, basement bar and casual cafe. Dusky pink velvet, sumptuously patterned wallpaper and a statement foliage wall add wow-factor to the 80-cover restaurant.

Cocktails are grouped into classics and signature drinks, which draw on tea, spice and dates to reflect the Indian aromas. Head chef Singh Bali (who cut his teeth at Michelin-starred restaurants Rasoi and Vineet Bhatia London) balances out hearty spice with more complex flavours. Seafood is a real highlight: our scallop starter had a kick of garlic and chilli, but still maintained a saline delicacy, and the Keralan lime lobster main is a rich combination of squid ink bisque and zesty chutney. Our chicken curry was less memorable, but still satisfyingly spiced and offset with string hoppers.

The vegetarian options are especially enticing. Alongside the South Asian stalwarts of masala dosa, samosas and dahl, there’s a particularly delicious almond and peacake starter with with wasabi chutney and an inventive take on classic paneer curry with fennel and samphire.

Dainty portions and painstaking presentation ensure that dishes look dazzling, with enough edible flowers and swirls of bright sauce to satisfy the Instagrammers. But there's definitely enough complexity and depth to satisfy the serious foodies too.