Brasserie of Light review ★★★★★
The first after-hours Selfridges restaurant dazzles diners with Art Deco interiors, an eclectic menu and a giant pegasus by Damien Hirst
First look: Brasserie of Light, Selfridges
If you’re wondering how, in this restaurant-saturated city, a new establishment could possibly stand out… how about a crystal-encrusted Pegasus with a 30ft wingspan erupting from the wall? This glorious, sparkly statue is from the king of ‘extra’ art, Damien Hirst, and is not only a talking point and Instagrammer’s dream, but also the centerpiece of the glorious new Brasserie of Light.
Located in Selfridges, this restaurant and bar from Caprice Holdings feels as exclusive as the designer labels being touted below. Mirrored tabletops, gold leaf, and shimmering silver aplenty all add to the air of affluent luxury that permeates every surface. The room has been divided so there’s a definite distinction between drinking and dining.
In the daytime, become ensconced in one of the royal blue leather banquettes, enjoying a leisurely smoked salmon bagel brunch as light floods from the huge windows that command a whole double-height wall. You’re pleasantly positioned on the first floor, so the mundanity of everyday pavement traffic is obscured in favour of (hopefully) blue skies and rooftops.
The bar area, located on the other side of a partition created from glowing white columns, is a dazzling art-deco triumph. There’s a metallic bar-top so polished that you could powder your nose in it, topped with those little lamps that have become synonymous with smoky jazz clubs. Perch on one of the rose-hued stools, and don’t even consider ordering your first cocktail unless it contains fizz. This is the kind of spot where sparkles seem as mandatory as a fresh manicure - for all those photographs of you holding various Pegasus-themed tableware, naturally. Even the coffee cups have miniature winged-horses gaily gliding across their surface. The Divine Stallion mixes Cherry Heering, Amaretto and Laurent-Perrier Rosé for a prettily pink flute that bubbles with the promise of a good night.
The main menu follows a similarly opulent theme - truffle wafu dressing, lobster, and hand-dived scallops all make appearances. Thankfully, this isn’t a case of style over substance. Yes, the dishes look gorgeous, but they also taste utterly scrumptious. Tuna carpaccio with a citrus ponzu dressing glimmers almost as much as the diamante horses stitched onto the waiter’s waistcoats, and tastes fresh, zingy, and exotic. The flat-iron chicken is accompanied by a rich and silky wild mushroom sauce and fragrant truffled mashed potato. Options are numerous and varied, so give yourself time for perusing the menu.
The prices aren’t as soaringly high as one might expect from a restaurant with a crystal Pegasus as its mascot. Of course, it’s possible to flex the plastic if you spend a decent amount of time here - and you’re likely to want to - but some things are worth lightening your wallet for. Brasserie Of Light is certainly one of them.
Bookings can be made online at www.brasserie-of-light.co.uk or by calling 0203 940 9600.
Located in Selfridges, this restaurant and bar from Caprice Holdings feels as exclusive as the designer labels being touted below. Mirrored tabletops, gold leaf, and shimmering silver aplenty all add to the air of affluent luxury that permeates every surface. The room has been divided so there’s a definite distinction between drinking and dining.
In the daytime, become ensconced in one of the royal blue leather banquettes, enjoying a leisurely smoked salmon bagel brunch as light floods from the huge windows that command a whole double-height wall. You’re pleasantly positioned on the first floor, so the mundanity of everyday pavement traffic is obscured in favour of (hopefully) blue skies and rooftops.
The bar area, located on the other side of a partition created from glowing white columns, is a dazzling art-deco triumph. There’s a metallic bar-top so polished that you could powder your nose in it, topped with those little lamps that have become synonymous with smoky jazz clubs. Perch on one of the rose-hued stools, and don’t even consider ordering your first cocktail unless it contains fizz. This is the kind of spot where sparkles seem as mandatory as a fresh manicure - for all those photographs of you holding various Pegasus-themed tableware, naturally. Even the coffee cups have miniature winged-horses gaily gliding across their surface. The Divine Stallion mixes Cherry Heering, Amaretto and Laurent-Perrier Rosé for a prettily pink flute that bubbles with the promise of a good night.
The main menu follows a similarly opulent theme - truffle wafu dressing, lobster, and hand-dived scallops all make appearances. Thankfully, this isn’t a case of style over substance. Yes, the dishes look gorgeous, but they also taste utterly scrumptious. Tuna carpaccio with a citrus ponzu dressing glimmers almost as much as the diamante horses stitched onto the waiter’s waistcoats, and tastes fresh, zingy, and exotic. The flat-iron chicken is accompanied by a rich and silky wild mushroom sauce and fragrant truffled mashed potato. Options are numerous and varied, so give yourself time for perusing the menu.
The prices aren’t as soaringly high as one might expect from a restaurant with a crystal Pegasus as its mascot. Of course, it’s possible to flex the plastic if you spend a decent amount of time here - and you’re likely to want to - but some things are worth lightening your wallet for. Brasserie Of Light is certainly one of them.
Bookings can be made online at www.brasserie-of-light.co.uk or by calling 0203 940 9600.
TRY CULTURE WHISPER
Receive free tickets & insider tips to unlock the best of London — direct to your inbox
| What | Brasserie of Light review |
| Where | Brasserie of Light, 400 Oxford Street , London, W1A1AB | MAP |
| Nearest tube | Bond Street (underground) |
| Price | £££ |
| Website | Book |