The Gate restaurant, Hammersmith

In 1989, Michael and Adrian Daniel, two brothers who knew nothing about running a restaurant, but who knew they loved good food, opened The Gate in this high-ceilinged, large-windowed converted artist’s studio set in a courtyard garden, serving ‘Indo-Iraqi Jewish’ cuisine that reflected their heritage. Three more branches followed, in Islington, Marylebone and St John’s Wood, and the menu has a more international flavour. Thirty-two years on, all branches bar Islington have re-opened following the pandemic, all with outdoor seating. Michael Daniel said: “This time last year I didn’t even think we’d still be in business.'

This vintage veggie restaurant wasn’t originally planned to cater purely for vegetarians or vegans, but the menu makes it hard to choose, even for omnivores. It still features stalwarts like red Thai curry or mushroom risotto – but here that comes in cake form with no fewer than four types of wild mushroom – alongside imaginative ingredient pairings, textures and tastes – Japanese miso-glazed aubergine (pictured), crispy tempura-style spicy Korean cauliflower, the renowned Green Dragon salad: fresh and crunchy with glazed smoked tofu, avocado, red cabbage and oriental greens, liberally sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds – and everything is prettily presented, strewn with edible flowers and microgreens. All wine is vegan, some is organic or kosher, and there are also bottled beers and ciders, freshly squeezed juices, cocktails and mocktails.