Hoppers, Soho

When we think of Indian restaurants in London, more often than not we think of our local curry house, with its rivers of ghee, onion bhajis weeping oil and – heaven help us – curry and chips. Unlike the cuisines of Japan or South East Asia, Indian food has never been hip: as a result, modern, inventive Indian cuisine is hard to come by. Even London's high-end curry-houses feel stiff and run of the mill.

All this changed in 2013, when the Sethi brothers opened Gymkhana. Critics were falling over themselves; Giles Coren went three times in five days, Jay Rayner couldn't find a single fault. The restaurant quickly earned a Michelin star and has won a host of awards, including Best Restaurant on no fewer than three occasions.

The foodie scene was endlessly excited, then, for the launch of the Sethi's latest restaurant, Hoppers, on Soho's Frith Street.

Hoppers and dosai are mainstays of South Indian and Sri Lankan streetfood. They are a kind of fermented rice pancake, like crumpets only lighter, topped with meat, vegetables, spicy sambals and coconut chutney. We can't wait to see how the Sethis bring these Tamil staples to London fine dining. Hungrier guests can choose between heartier dishes, such as a Buffalo shank biryani or Tamil roast chicken, turned on a spit.

Gymkhana is known for its grownup, masculine, Raj-inspired interiors: all low-light and hefty dark wood surfaces. Hoppers is a different thing altogether; its design, based on riotous Tamil iconography, is maximalist, playful and full of character.

We love this authentic yet playful addition to the Soho restaurant scene.