Kiln restaurant, Soho, London ★★★★★

Kiln is probably one of the most thrilling places in London to eat, especially at the long steel counter with full action views of the kitchen. It's mesmerising. Inspired by his experiences travelling in Northern Thailand, owner/chef Ben Chapman built the wood-fired kiln himself and devised the system of cooking with claypots, woks and grill over chestnut wood embers.

Gingery brown crab and pork belly with silky glass noodles and potent liquor is one of the best combinations we've eaten in a very long time. The laap salads are seriously fiery and well worth experiencing as is very gingery short-rib beef curry. Do order the outrageously good lemon mini kebabs drenched in cumin and Szechuan pepper too.

Though Kiln don't take reservations, walk in to take a place in line and they will take a name and number, and suggest a local bar to wait at and build both expectations and appetite. This is not a place to go and order feebly as it is impossible not to be seduced into coveting neighbouring dishes.