Boyds Grill & Wine review ★★★★★

Entering the grand doorway into Boyd's and admiring the architecture and extravagant marble walls, you might be forgiven for thinking you've walked into one of London's older members' clubs.

In fact, Boyd's is a relatively recent addition to the area. The bar and grill is a fairly recent addition to Trafalgar Square, housed within a Victorian building. By nature of their grandeur, traditional bistro menu and location, the venue has a very tourist heavy clientele – and they're trying to attract a London crowd. Unfortunately, due to the slightly stuffy atmosphere, they seem unlikely to pull it off.

White linen drapes every table, silverware is changed regularly: uniformed staff hover to refill wine glasses or talk you through the flavours. The wines are good and the whole menu is made from British artisanal ingredients, hand selected by the restaurant. Unfortunately, Boyd's drive to perfection doesn't seem to have reached the kitchen, and a number of dishes arrive a little cold.

Boyd's prides itself on the quality of its meat, and the steaks are all served in a very traditional way, with the likes of peppercorn and bearnaise, along with a range of classic sides. It's all perfectly edible – the starters like sardines or marrow faggot were particularly tasty – but nothing is sensational, and the restaurant lacks the "wow' factor needed to separate it from more institutions with a heritage behind them, like The Wolseley or Savoy.

For hungry tourists looking for warm respite from the bustle of Trafalgar Square or an older clientele, Boyd's ticks all the boxes. It's just not quite trendy enough to draw in a more local crowd.